See what I mean All soft and cosy like. Then, suddenly Kerput Finish The harsh beam of neon glares down on your eve move - and every self-respecting spirit packs it in and shoo through to a rival hotel.

Gunung Kawi is a temple only to be reached by clambering down 300 odd steps. It is said to be a rock temple of considerable antiquity. It may be all of that and something more. Any temple that is prepared to go through life, century after century, lurking at the bottom of 300 steps can manage without my patronage. Tampaksiring, a short way further up the road, is more my style. At last count it had six steps. At the Festival of Kuningan, it is the custom for all Bal.